I'd start with an ACDelco plug that is one heat range colder than stock. The NGK U-groove plugs show consistant performance in my Dodge dakota with a warmed over 318 V-8. Gap either to .040"
Plug wire selection depends on whats out there for 292. A good set of silicon 7 or 8 mm wires will be fine. Accel makes a line of good 8 mm wires that are custom fit. Don't know if they have them for 292. Stay away from the u-cut to fit wires. The ends pull off when you try to change plugs. You may have to look at high temp wires or angled ends to fit your application.
Timing- start off with 8 to 12 BTDC. The base timing is about right when you can 'bump' the key and she lights off, without starter kickback. Shoot for a maximum of 32-38 degrees at 3,000 RPM. Get a good recurve kit and adjustable vac advance to custom-set spark curve. Then tune from there to see what the motor likes. I use premium in my car, so I add 2 or 4 more degrees of timing to take advantage of the octane. Connect vacuum advance to ported vac and see how the motor likes it.
Run a 160 thermostat. The motor may show a tendancy to run warm due to the .060" overbore anyway. Running the engine cooler may suck marginally more gas, but it'll have slightly better resistance to detonation caused by improper timing or carb jetting. It could also drop oil temps a few degrees too.
Make sure to read your plugs and tailpipe ends to make sure you're not running rich or lean. If your headers ever glow at night, you're running WAY lean. A really good headers/exhaust system can cause a lean condition by scaveging the unburned gas that was hanging around in the cyl waiting for the next sparkplug party.
Is your engine in car or on stand or what? If flywheel is off, you can sometimes tap the dowel pins into crank flange with a brass hammer and some care.
May I also suggest checking the whole cam-distributor-oilpump thing?
good luck
