IT WORKS!
After much thought and trying, I determined that I would figure this out. I needed to move the striker plate down to get more room under the latch for the rotor on the latch to encounter the striker in order to make the latch work properly but because the captured “nuts” in the frame and the inherently bad design of the counter sunk screw holes in the striker plate, it could not be adjusted downward and would not move down any further.
I removed the latch and thoroughly cleaned it and lubricated it with lock lubricant and when I reinstalled it, it occurred to me that if I could raise the latch, it would accomplish the same thing as lowering the striker plate. I was faced with the same design problem of the counter sunk hole not allowing upward movement of the latch assembly. To cure this, I inserted a small piece of copper wire under the bottom of the screws in the countersunk holes, forcing the latch assembly upward and it did in fact shift the latch upward. I tested it by simply looking as I closed the door gently and saw that the alignment left 1/8” below the latch as it passed over the lower surface of the striker plate. I completed the installation and closed the door and it worked perfectly. I was so happy that I must have opened and closed it 50 times.
I will still install the repair spring clip over the latch rotor when it arrives as it should give a new surface on the latch rotor. If it doesn’t work, I’ll take it out.
Thanks for all of the feedback.
John
