remohbill, Over the years I have enjoyed the challenge of reviving a long stored engine and had a lot of opportunities to do so on tractor and automobile,stationary,marine and even 1 little aircraft.
Engines that have rested,exposed to our humid air here will have the carbon deposits that are on comb chamber and valve surfaces changed to many times a corrosive material that will pit the areas in contact.The ones that hurt most in a case like yours, I think, is the sealing surfaces of the valves and seats, plus any residue prevents proper sealing resulting in leakage and lowered compression at cranking speed.
The greatest aid in starting an engine that has been stored like this is an increase in cranking speed,which effectively raises the compression by reducing the time available for leakage.
If the vehicle can safely be moved/driven the easiest way is to push start in a lower gear.Less than 15 MPH in 2 nd gear is usually sufficient.When started this way the slow starter is not used so it doesn't lower the voltage available for ignition.
If push starting is not an option, I have don a temporary rewiring of the starter to provide 24 volts to the STARTER ONLY.Easily done by lifting the wire on bat post at the starter solenoid that feeds the vehicle and with a jumper make sure it sees only one battery while a battery is added to provide 24 v for the starter.Lift the starter pull in wire at the solenoid and actuate the starter with a screwdriver or a jumper on this terminal when ready to crank.
Probably when the engine starts and runs for 5 minutes sometimes less, it will be able to start as normal as the running will clear the seat sealing areas and the engine will be freer to turn also.
Be aware-non gasoline additives dumped in a cyl can kill the spark plugs and our modern oils will do it.You should consider new cheap plugs to get started or use your torch to clean the old ones by heating the insulator nose to incandescence when it will be naturally cleaned.Small torch and great care please and don't forget the anti seize.
I think your comp test tells us the valves are moving and sealing some--not stuck open. They won't stick closed unless something bends or breaks.Lifters that have leaked down while stored will cause wrong valve timing, reduced compression, reduced valve opening and the click you hear.When it runs things will change.
Starting fluid lights easily but I have seen weak engines that would do little until fed some gasoline through the carb throat.
Good luck and keep us posted
