Soak the cylinders with Kroil. It's better than PB Blaster at freeing up rusted pistons.
www.kanolabs.comAlso, have somebody hold pressure with a pry bar on the flywheel teeth while you use a wood block close to the size of the piston and a sledgehammer to smack the pistons a few times. Shocking the pistons helps break them loose.
The front plate behind the timing gears will make it very difficult to remove the crankshaft with the pistons still in place.
Jerry
I'd be very surprised if this approach didn't make it turn.
The turning ability available using a good fitting pry bar on the flywheel teeth one at a time surpasses anything else you can do.Don't underestimate the value of the BFH applied to the piston tops.
The pistons holding the most will be the two nearest the center of travel because of the crank angle--any of the rods you can disconnect will help the matter.
If you have a torch at your disposal, heat the pistons from the inside if possible---stinkin,smokin hot, then go away until they cool completely.
When they are heated they expand considerably--when they cool they contract from the walls and rust filling the space and get looser---apply again the BFH.
Don't forget the wooden block to protect the piston tops.
It can be made to turn.
About that BFH, application to pistons on top or bottom of the stroke do nothing to turn the crank but do help break loose the piston to wall bond.
