Yes Dave you can pull the pan without moving the engine. You may have to jack it up so the axle is hanging down for it to clear depending on what model it is.
Make sure the pan rail is straight before installing the new gaskets, Glue them to the clean block with Permatex Hi-Tack sealer and use some cut off bolts as studs to guide keep the gaskets aligned and guide the pan on straight. And don't over tighten the screws. Pay special attention to the end corks. Make sure they fit all the way into the groove and use a little RTV to seal the ends to the block, A LITTLE DAB WILL DO YA!!!! You can pre-form them by strapping them around a can or jar with a rubber band and put them in the microwave for a few minutes then let them cool.
That will take care of the pan leak but as Charlie alluded to, the other two places that are most likely the reason for your leak are the rear main seal and the front timing cover seal. Both of them are a butch to replace while the engine is in the vehicle, not impossible but difficult and more often than not a wasted effort.
And keep this in mind, these engines even leaked when they were new. I worked in Chevrolet Dealerships in the late 50's and early 60's and drip pans in the show rooms were a common sight.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL
