Go take the top off your toilet, and push the flush handle. Watch what the water in the tank does. The "drop" of the tank float doesn't have anything to do with how high the water rises in the tank, does it? Your carburetor float works the same way. The "float level" adjustments controls how high the gasoline rises in the carburetor, just like the toilet tank float shuts the water off when it reaches the top of its travel. You need to lower the "float level" adjustment to its correct position and be sure no dirt or debris is allowed to enter the carburtetor (good inline fuel filter)to be sure the needle valve shuts the incoming gasoline off so it can't flood the engine.
Jerry
Ha! i fixed the toilet twice today.
The float drop is not important in this situation. The float level is. With the air horn upside down the top of the float should measure 1 9/32 in. from the gasket. If this is correct you must have a piece of dirt in the needle & seat. Measure the float drop from the gasket to the bottom of the float with the float hanging. All this does is keep the float from resting on the bottom of the bowl & posibly sticking.
I took the initiative to take off the top first then while that was off I rested it so the floats could hand free, I took off the base off and disconnected the throttle, I replaced the gasket with the plastic one from the rebuild kit with the current gasket and made sure the throttle wasn’t leaking. I did the same thing with the intake to manifold gasket. Then I checked the new accelerator pump which is rubber. I checked the floats by eye and to make them drop less basically because “my” toilet was overflowing. The butterfly leak was still there, after I took it for a run, around 50 mph about 2 miles, let it idle for a few minutes, then drove back. Took it for another 2 mile run up some back roads, and opened the hood, problem solved. I think I’m starting to understand carbs, the car did die eventually, but that’s my problem. Thanks again.
