This works most of the time. Drill two holes in a piece of 3x3x1/8 angle so it will bolt to the two holes at the top of the housing. Make a slot for a flat bar to fit into about halfway between the two bolts and in line with the end of the pin. Have a helper place the bar in the slot and swing it down to a spacer on the end of the pin. I have a clevis on the flat bar so it's easier to hold in position. The helper can apply enough pressure on the end of the pin to keep the stub of the lock pin from spinning. There isn't room for a drill motor so get a 10 or 12 inch long 3/16 drill and a short piece of 1/4" tubing that's long enough to fit against the broken off lock pin and sticks out just enough to grab hold of; this will keep the drill centered on the pin even if broken at an angle. These pins are VERY soft so usually the long drill will hang part way through and pull the pin with it when you withdraw it. If not GENTLY tap an easy out into it and remove. It is soft and thin walled after drilling so bashing a remover in hard will swell it and really lock it in. If you do the arcing a stiff wire against the stub use a piece of shrink tubing that is even with the end of the wire to prevent accidental arcing to the sides of the bore as this will make it hang up for sure. As suggested, get the wire in position first and then bump the outer end with the stinger.

Evan