Or, as I've always done, just place your inner bearing in your left hand and scoop up a LIBERAL amount of any wheel bearing grease from your Farm supply or FLAPS and with your right hand work it into the bearing in your left hand making sure that you force it thru the cage or seperator and into the bearing. Note: It is not nessasary to absolutely fill every air space in the bearing as the grease will thin out as soon as it get hot and evenly distribute it self in the bearing. Place the heavily loaded bearing into it's inner race in the hub and work the grease from both of your hands into your left hand then with your right index and middle fingers wipe the access grease from your left hand into the cavity around the bearing face. Set the inner bearing, outer race in place and drive the new seal into the counter bore at the back of the hub. Now slide the hub onto the spindle all the way till you feel the race seat against the back of the spindle. Repeat the operation for greasing the outer bearing and slide it and it's outer race and washer over the spindle. Tighten the nut in accordance with the torque specs in the service manual while rotating the hub then back it off for the proper free play described in the service manual. From the top, insert a new correct length cotter pin in place bending the longest leg upward across the nose of the spindle and bending the short leg back against the washer. Replace your dust cover, replace your wheel and lug nuts and torque them according to the specs in the manual.
And that’s all there is to it, now your good to go another 10,000 miles or 5years, which ever comes first.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL
Last edited by Denny Graham; 06/01/2011 1:09 PM.
