Hey all, I'm back with a 250 question. My dad has a fishing boat he keeps in Kodiak Alaska with my brother that has Mercruiser 165 (Chev 250 I-6) Before he sent it up he replaced the rotted out 250 with a early 80's Camaro 250 that was "rebuilt" Last week while heading out of the harbor, the 250 started knocking, and to make a long story short, the #1 cylinder wrist pin is siezed, and the # 1 cylinder is egged. The island machinest says that the block was bored incorrectly, since the engine only has roughly 50 hours since "overhaul" He says that the block is shot, and that thay need a new one. I am planning to pull my 68 250 out of my project truck, and do a short block on it, as it sis run good, but want a fresh bottom end to ship to the Island within thenext 2 weeks. Questions are, once the engine is out, what is the best way to check the cylinders and journals to see if I can just hone/re-ring and re-bearing, or if I need to get a machine shop involved...
The machine shop here in Washington state claims that timing and too rich of fuel (too much fuel) cause the #1 cylinder to overheat siezing the wrist pin, and trashing the cylinder. Is this a possibility on the 250??? Doesn't sound right to me, and I have been around cars and mechanics all my life...
My brother and I are trying to help out my dad by shipping my 250 short-block via barge to Kodiak, which is expensive to say the least, so I am trying to save $$ on my end for the short blocking of my 250, and I'll worry about finding another engine for my project for later. I have a hone, and I've gapped rings and done crush strips before, any other pointers or tips would be greatly appreciated. PS the boat is a 1973 and the original I/O mercruiser was all 1973 if that makes a difference.
Thanks, Garry K
