I usually immerse the rope seals in 30 weight oil, let them soak for a while, and install them wet. There used to be a driver tool the same diameter as the crankshaft flange that was used to pack the seal into the groove, but if you're careful, the crankshaft itself can serve the same purpose. Pack the rope seal as tightly as possible into the groove, then use the crankshaft to roll it into the proper shape. Do the same thing with the rear main bearing cap; install the soaking-wet rope, and form it to shape by rolling the cap over the rear flange on the crank. Use a single-edge razor blade or a box cutter blade to cut the rope ends off exactly flush with the block and cap. A tiny dab of RTV sealer could be used between the seal ends as the cap is installed, but I've installed hundreds of them without using any sealer at all on the ends. Make sure none of the rope gets trapped between the block and the cap as the bolts are torqued- - - -it can mess up beazring clearance if seal material gets sandwiched between the mating parts. A rope seal that's properly installed should last as long as a lip seal, be virtually leak-free, and cause less wear because there's a much wider point of contact with the crankshaft flange.
Jerry
