| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
9 members (Wayne67vert, DaveV, Phak1, Eisenholtz, Ponchogl, Bill Hanlon, 55shaker, Rusty Rod, TUTS 59),
159
guests, and
1
robot. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,049 Posts1,055,546 Members48,425 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 83 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 83 | I left the inner most bolt on the top hinge alone as the captive nut area is not accessable unless you cut a hole for it. I have a pickup cab sitting on saw horses (it has no fenders attached to it) so I can see what's there. I belive messing with that inner most bolt on that upper hinge is asking for trouble if you don't REALLY have to. I got my door off but left the upper hinge attached to the body; I'll remove it (if I HAVE to) once I get the fender off. I used Map Gas to heat the bolt up and when it was hot I applied bee's wax to the bolt, it wicked right in there and I removed the bolt witout damage. Remember these bolts are Nat'l Fine Thread and are made in such a way as to resist turning (you'll see what I mean when you get that sucker outta there) so it will be a tough turn and take a while to get it out.
Last edited by Doug9656; 07/19/2010 8:00 PM. Reason: typos
1999 GMC Yukon 1957 GMC 100 Panel
| | |
| |
| |