Look in the Manuals for your truck. the door gap tolerance is 3/16-1/4 (that's the tolerance!) on the gaps. Just make them even. Keep in mind the proper way for a door to close (TF Trucks) is when the door contacts the striker, the door should be "lifted" a little as it closes. It may seem like an interference, buts that's the way it's supposed to be. A bunch of trial an error is necessary. Rig up some jigging, like a jack under the door or sling it, so that you can hold it to a position each time you tweak it. They are very heavy and you will get tired quick if you don't rig something. If you have a cherry picker, wrap the lift arm with something soft and stick it thru the window opening to sling it. Hinges and striker plates will need adjusted and maybe shimmed. Don't forget that you can move the fender a little if you get into a "bind". bind, get it? The in and out is from the clearance holes on the jamb bolts and the fender adjust. You can open up the clearance holes if you are sure you have tried everything else. Don't forget, as your rubber "sets" it may allow a tad more "in". In extreme cases the door can be "racked". That, however, is a dangerous game. As Squeeze says, these trucks are far from perfect but you don't want them to leak either. The match of the body to the doors was funky when they were new. Just as some of the chrome had imperfections and bubbles, etc. Even that technology was not perfected. Don't look at those $100,000 Foosemobiles as your model.
Last edited by bartamos; 07/16/2010 11:18 PM.
