Ok here is the check list for engine runs with key in start position only.
1. Turn key on use a volt meter or a test lamp, inspect for voltage at the + post on the coil.
1a. Has voltage; Go to step 2.
1b. No voltage; goto step 3.
2. Has voltage at + terminal on coil. Inspect for closed, ashed, or pitted points. Re-gap or replace as ness. (note; some old cars have 2 sets of points, a start set and a run set.)
3. Has no voltage at + post on coil. Some older cars had a voltage resistence wire between the ignition switch and the coil, some had a ballast resistor. Lets start at the ignition switch. With a test lamp or volt meter, you need to test for voltage to the switch with the key off. (This may be easier if you remove the switch from its mounting and leave the wires connected for better axcess.) If you find voltage at the switch go to step 3a. If you do not find voltage go to step 3b.
3a. Yes I have voltage to the switch with the key off. Mark of remember which wire or wires have voltage at the switch. Now turn on the switch to the run position (not the start position). Now you should have at least one more wire with power (possibly more than one). Remember or mark those wires. If you do not have voltage from another wire; replace the ignition switch. If you do have voltage to another wire, go to step 4.
Step 3b is for the guy who wants to keep the factory look and function. If you only want it to run then install a wire from the battery to the switch. Then go to step 1 and retest.
3b. This step will require some wiring inspection. At this point a manuel or at least a wiring diag. Would be very handy. Then you will know what color the feed wire is to the switch from the battery.
With as razor blade (do i really need to warn you that they are sharp?) cut the insulation from the wires going to the switch, you are looking for cut or damaged wiring as you go.
{TIP} IF you are cutting the tape from the wires they will be hanging down all over the place and getting tangled. Go in the house and get some garbage bag ties. As you cut the insulation ( oh say every 6") put a garbage tie there. This will be helpfull when you re-rap the wiring with tape.
At some point you should find a broken burned or disconnected wire. If not go back to step 3 and start over.
4. I have voltage across the switch. A wiring diag. would be handy here also.
Step 4 is for the guy that wants factory look and function.
If you just want it to run then install a wire and a ballast resistor (tell the parts guy you want a ballast resistor for a 65 Dodge with a 225 cid engine) from the (key on) hot lead to the new ballest resistor and from the other side of the resistor to the coil + post. Go to step 1.
For the purest you are gonna split the harness and look for damaged wiring from the switch to the coil. See {TIP} from 3b. If you don't find a damaged wire then go back to step 3.
Whew! I am worked down, all this typing, HEY!! Do I get paid for this?
Good luck, keep us posted.
