My truck had been converted from 6v to 12v before I got it. It appears all they did was a resistor for the fuel gauge and change the regulator and most the bulbs. I changed the rest and added an ignition resistor and changed to a 12v coil.

Maybe not a huge deal, but a lot of work if you don't have a good reason for doing it.

While removing leafs will lower your truck some, by the time you remove enough to really make a difference it will have ruined the ride and handling. When you hit a bump in the road the axle will hit the bump stops causing quite a jar and you'll find an already top heavy truck swaying even more more going around corners with less resistance to leaning.

It seems everyone wants to lower their truck on the cheap. There are a couple of approaches that can accomplish that if you define cheap as around $1,000. You can buy monoleaf springs for all four corners or you can buy a dropped axle for the front and lowering blocks for the rear.

Any approach to lowering the front will change the relative location of the steering arms to the steering box. Unless you correct for the change you will have bump steer. Bump steer is at the very least annoying and can be dangerous, so you'll want to correct for it.

Any effort to lower one of these trucks should start with a careful inspection of any parts you intend to reuse and replacement of kingpins and bushings and any other wear parts that are less the perfect.

It would be hypocritical of me to join the leave it stock chorus, but I would say the better you understand what you're changing and why the more likely you are to manage changes you'll be pleased with when complete.



1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...