i rewired two trucks so date. like was said earlier remove the speaker grill. i didnt take the seat and frame out nor did i remove the speedo. i did have someone push the clutch to the floor and i vise grip the pedal at the firewall in the engine compartment. i also removed the clevis pin in the master cylinder and got the brake pedal out of the way. with both pedals out of the way it was easy for me to get in up under the dash. depending on whose harness you purchased which really shouldnt be much differece than any other harness thats made.

before i get started i lay out the harness as it sits in the truck. i trace out all the circuits and mark both ends as to where they go which will get you familar with how it goes once you actually strat to install it. carefully feed the main part of the harness thru the hole in the fire wall until you get to the first splice in the harness. use the wires that go to the voltage regulator as your guide as to how far to feed into the cab. there are two bendable tabs under the dash that holds the harness in place. locate them and put the harness in the first on and then feed the remainder over towards the center of the dash. then start hooking up the wires to the proper terminals. when your done in the cab then lay out the remainder of the harness in the engine compartment using the clips on the inner fender to hold in place. i like to do the voltage regulator, dimmer swich which i find its easier to remove the switch, hook up the wires then put the switch back in. horn and geeny are next followed by the head/park lights but you can do it anyway you find to be easiest for you. i wire up the brake light switch after i hook the pedal back up to the master cylinder and release the clutch pedal.

main thing is to have all good cleaned terminals and grounds with tight connections. its not fun chasing down non working circuits after you go through installing a new harness.

40 GMC 250 STAKE/FLAT BED
1951 Chevy 6100 Dump
51 GMC 350 ENGINE 500/500
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