Where your horn wire lead exits the mast jacket you can use a couple of layers of shrink tubing or you can do it right and use the woven wire loom like the original one was from the factory.
Horn wire lead:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/123129399/large The mast jacket bushing/horn contact at the top of the column is usually a one shot deal. In other words once you remove it you usually have to replace it. So if the lead is in bad shape I would suggest adding a length to the stub you have, covering it with shrink tubing and pushing the extra back up inside of the jacket. The wire loom is available from most of the aftermarket vendors. A little strip of copper house wiring flattened out will server as the clip to hold the loom in place.
Here are a bunch of pictures, which are usually better than the illustrations in the manual at seeing what your up against in the steering box:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/steering&page=all Your slop in the steering wheel, i.e. 180° movement, is a lash adjustment for the sector. If you can’t take it up with the screw than in all likely hood you have some badly worn parts in the steering box and I would conceder rebuilding it, having it rebuilt or at least getting a different used steering box.
If the worm adjustment on the bottom of the box is loose, then your being able to pull the steering wheel up and down in line with the steering shaft would indicate this.
Don’t make to big of a thing about the scale adjustment. All they’re saying is there should be a little preload on the bearings. As long as you take out the slop and there are no tight spots throughout the full range of movement then you should be just fine. And no matter what you do, don’t use grease in the steering box, there are literally dozens of better lubricants suggested on this site if you do a little searching.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL
