Stay away from the start terminal on the ignition switch. On some models, there were two "ignition" terminals on the switch, I-1 and I-2. I-1 had a nickel-chrome resistor wire on it that replaced the ceramic ballast resistor from the earlier models and went to the coil + terminal during normal running. The I-2 wire was made of copper and was only energized in the start position. It bypassed the resistor wire to give the coil full battery voltage during cranking. Both of the original "Ignition" wires at the switch need to be eliminated, and a heavy wire, 10 or 12 gauge, needs to be run from the I-1 terminal to the HEI "Battery" terminal on the cap. The original I-2 wire can be used as a tach reference, if desired, as long as it's disconnected from the ignition switch. Don't connect anything to either end of the silvery-looking stiff wire that comes off the I-1 terminal. It's got a fair amount of built-in resistance.
Jerry
