I am probably going to put my foot in it, but here goes.

Anyone, and I mean competant mechanics but especially those with little mechanical knowledge, who purchases an after market brake kit and expects it to be a bolt-in are in for disapointment.

#1. The MC pedal and linkage system must have "free play". The pedal must be held away from contacting the MC piston by a spring. This is how GM and all auto engineers design the systems, therefore it is common sense that the builder of a custom system must follow sound engineering practaces.

#2. The caliper is susposed to be free floating and the caliper piston location is governed by the fluid accumilation in the cylinder and brake lines. In regard to the residual valve holding the caliper piston from returning, the GM system is a zero clearence system. There are no springs to retract the caliper piston. The 2# of residual pressure will not hold the pad against the rotor. Because of this the parts must me assembled so that there are no binding in the parts. Caliper bracket offset and straightness was a problem with my CPP parts and at least one other 'Bolter that I have talked with. So I imagin there is a problem with CPP's quality control program. To fix this the brackets need to be tweeked to get all of the components in the correct place.

#3. Depending on the MC that you are using, you will need to install 2# front and 10# residual valves with a disk/drum system. If the MC has built in residual valves this is not required. But, you do need residual valves with the MC under to floor. You may also need an adjustable Proprotioning valve.

So, this is my recomendation. Start over. Make sure the MC linkage system has free play. Reference the repair manual for a recomendation, but about 3/4 inch should be OK. This is at the pedal. The pedal return spring should hold the pedal tight aganist the floor. You will most likely need to make a new connecting rod from the pedal lever to the MC piston. BTW, make sure the MC has a deep recess in the piston where the connecting rod goes so that the rod cannot fall out.

Now go to the caliper mounts and calipers. Take them apart and carefully measure the caliper bracket to make sure it is true to the rotor. It must be paralell to the rotor contact surface in both axis. The offset must be such that a caliper loaded with new pads can be installed with the bolts tightened and have the rotor spin freely.

This is a condensed version of many post on this subject. Do a search for this and you will get an education about the frustration of using so called bolt-in conversion parts.

With brake systems, if it does not feel right or look right, get someone with good sound mechanical knowledge to look at it for you. Do not think good enough is OK.

Look at my build picture under brake problems for some pictures of a CPP install.

Sorry for the SP errors, it is late.

Lonnie




54 Chevy build pics.