Just to finish this thread off-
I bought a pressure bleeder with a cap especially made for that old Stovebolt style master cylinder. I bought it on line from a company called Motive Product. I have no association with them.
Unpacked the unit..Hooked up a few things and tested it to hold pressure..then filled it with new DOT 3.Screwed the temporary cap in the master cylinder. Pumped it up to 15 lbs..and just put a clear hose (provided) on the wheel cyl bleeder..opened it with a wrench and watched til the fluid ran clear of bubbels. The first wheel alone(left rear) made a big difference. 20 minutes later the work was completed and I had a rock hard pedal.
Not say'n you can't do it the old way...I've done it that way for 40 years..But this is so convenient..especially when you work alone. I will expand on this in another thread..
One last thing..how this thread started..Bleeding longest to shortest..many of us accept that..I do..However my truck, with original lines, did not conform to the manual online..my 55 3/4 ton was..Longest:Left rear..then Right rear..Then Right front..then Left front
Keith
Last edited by Slickriffs; 08/16/2008 12:23 AM.
