See if your machinist can follow these directions. 1--put the new main bearings in the block and caps and WITHOUT the rear oil seal. 2--lightly oil with 30wt, NOT Lubriplate. 3--lay crank in and torque caps to spec. 4--if the crank now turns freely with no hard spots then it does not need align boring (most shops align HONE if not way off). This should take no more than a half hour compared to several hours to face off the caps, install and torque, set up the boring jig, etc.
I've decided to keep cost down, quality up, and have some fun so I'm going to do all the check and assembly work myself and just use the machinist for machine work. I'll pre assemble the crank and bearings and check with plasti-gauge to see how it looks for consistency between main bores. If any mains are out of round or out of tolerance then I'll have them align bored. I don't believe honing is an option because of the varied main diameters. At least not with my machinist's equipment.
