I have to agree with HotRod Lincoln about pull starting. I rebuilt the engine in a 1962 Austin Healey Sprite, the only engine I've ever rebuilt, so far, and it seemed awfully tight when I was done. Over time I replaced the battery and starter and it still didn't turn over. The crankshaft hub nut was accessible, so I put a torque wrench on it. It took 62 ft/lbs of torque to turn it over. The starter motor was rated at 50 ft/lbs.

So we decided to pull start it. As soon as I let the clutch out, at about 10 miles per hour, the rear end broke.

This finally got me started looking for the real problem. I pulled the engine and found that I had installed all three main bearing caps backwards. I punched marks in the caps when I took the out, but no matching marks in the block. Kind of like finding that great fishing spot and putting a mark on the side of the boat so you can find it again.

Reversed the caps and re-installed the engine. It took about 6 ft/lbs of torque to turn over. It started up find and immediately blew the oil filter off. I had decided to save $1.34 by not replacing the oil pressure relief piston.

Got that straightened out but still couldn't drive it because of the rear end.

I learned a lot from that car.


195? Chevy 3800 dump truck
1973 Chevy C30 cab and chassis
1987 Suburban 3/4 ton 6.2L Diesel