Very good info underdog..
Obniously the "Professional" bedliners are better than the DIY kits, and I don't think anyone here is gonna argue that. I have done a few of the Pro jobs (used to work in a Paint & Body shop..) but I think the discussion here is mainly the DIY kits as we all are do it yourselfers and frugal (ok... call me cheap...)
Just an FYI... This last job that I did (Yesterday) I bought two kits as I had an 8' bed AND a full rail with top basket headache rack to do. I was working on both at the same time (having a 16yr old kid around help out at times like these) and did the entire bed (1st coat) and a good portion of the headache rack before I opened the second kit! I now have a little over half a gallon left and am going to do fender guards and then recoat the bed again with the rest. It is not the 1/4 in thick pro job that I have on my flatbed, but still very hard and durable. (and the "pro" job that came on my FB is coming loose in places...)
I will take pictures when the project is done (the weather is trying to turn south today so I will most likely be finishing the project w/o the 16 yr young assistance...
As for the rattle can spray liner... It has its uses... Mainly fenders and such. It gets expensive fast at $8/can! I have used it successfully in many applications. and tend to keep a can on hand for certain projects as well as touch up in the hard to reach areas after a roll/brush on job (inside stake pockets, under bed rail...) I find the rattle cans work very well for floorboards as well as they do not have the grit! again, thickness is key, and keeping a rattle job smooth while moving slow enough to let it bubble up thick, is difficult at best!
The paint/rust strip pads work great for getting a rough solid adhesion surface on already painted surfaces. If you are working with bare metal, the 36grit sand paper, then prime, then scuff imo, works best. The primary reason for the primer is rust prevention, and guaranteed adhesion.
Best of luck, I will get pics up soon.
Laterz,
Gator
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