BC52,
The condition you describe is typical of ignition switch or resistor bypass failure. As atomarc says, I also don't think the HEI system uses either a ballast resistor or a bypass circuit, although I think there is usually a 'Start' position on the ignition switch. If this is a conversion from the original six volt system, there is no 'Start' position on the switch. Also, if you didn't provide for the higher primary current the HEI system takes, my first thought is that you have ignition switch trouble. The original ignition switch can't/won't handle the primary current that the HEI system takes. I am not familiar with HEI conversions for older vehicles, so I don't know if those conversions provide for the higher primary current they take. Published information about OEM HEI primary current is somewhat misleading because those systems use a current-limiting circuit to prevent discharging the vehicle battery if the ignition switch is left on without the engine running. The published current level with that condition is something around 0.2 amps, if I remember correctly (key on, engine off). When you crank the engine with one of those systems, the current limiter function turns off and the full primary current reaches something around 20 amps- I don't remember exactly. Without the current limiter, the battery wouldn't hold up for long with the key on, engine stopped. Even with the engine running, there is still a current limiting circuit that functions at low engine speed when the dwell time is long enough to permit adequate coil saturation with a lower current.
Maybe this is more than you wanted to know, but the HEI ignition system is not a 'plug-and-play' system as it is often perceived to be. And again, I am not familiar with the HEI after-market conversion kits, so I'll defer to the experience of others on that topic. But without more information on those conversions, I remain skeptical of their long-term merit and reliability.
Harvester
