chip: And so the story goes......... cracked #1 cap. That was caused by incorrect shimming. I went back and re-read both your posts on "235 crank install" and "235 oil lines".
In one post you mentioned that you could not find any shop that took working on your 6 seriously. Also that you talked to them about balancing your 235, and they looked at you kind of like, "what, are you kidding".
Well... there is a lesson to be learned here, and that is to find a "QUALITY" shop, and to discuss your problems/needs/concerns with them from the onset, before any work is performed. What I mean by a quality shop is- a "reputable" shop. One that is recommended by friends, neighbors, auto parts store(s),other "old truckers", or that maybe you have dealt with before. A quality shop will do you right, and give you a good job at a fair price. At the same time without cutting corners. They will also stand behind there work, usually with some kind of warranty. The warranty will usually cover parts and/or workmanship for a specified period of time.
All this being said, something is wrong with this picture! This block should have been checked out (magnafluxed) before a boring bar ever touched it! This is standard operating procedure in any shop. Once the block arrives, it is stripped down all the way. All bearings removed, freeze plugs, oil gallery plugs, everything. Then it's into the hot tank for a good cleaning. Once out this is the time for a careful inspection of all parts, (block, caps, rods, crank) measurements are then taken, and all bores (cylinder/bearing) checked for true and alignment. Now the block should be magnafluxed, before any cylinder boring, surfacing, or bearing bore alignment machining operations take place.
Then after careful measurements are taken to determine necessary cylinder overbore, the close inspection of all parts, checking for cracks, first by visual inspection, paying close attention to main web areas, main caps, thrust bearing areas, cam drive/thrust area, pan rail, front surface of block, rear surface of block, and deck. Remember, this is a visual check.
Next step should be magnaflux check of the same block areas. If the shop did not cover this with you when you brought the block in initially, they should have. At this point of the inspection, the shop should have called you to inform you that a mag check was necessary, as this is the prudent step to take. I do not know what was said, or what was done, but the ball was certainly dropped!
Someone at the shop should have caught this cap. I honestly do not think they even magged the block in the first place. Stupid guy's in the shop didn't check these part out!!!
Yes, take block back to the shop, with cap and show them the crack. Have them mag the entire block. Also take your crank (reground), and reconditioned rods too. Have them check that crank, and carfully check the rods. The rods are very susceptible to cracks along the beam, just above the big end, and at the top next to the clamp bolt. Have them magged too.
If you find any other cracks, or suprises in your block, you may want to toss it. Just depends on what it is. The problem you face is unusual in that your car (54) uses those bastard side mounts on the block. Both earlier and later blocks use different locations for motormounts, and do not have the side mounts. Alan has a 54 truck block. but it is a different casting #, so you will have to check that out, to see if mounts will work.
If all's well with everything else on your block besides the #1 cap, thats an easy fix. Just take in that #1 off your other 235 you have, and they can rebore just #1. (The cam gears will be fine, thats just another horror story).Then have them fit the mains, and install the crank,if they have not done this already. If your main bearings are oversize for your .010 under crank, they can pick up some undersize (reborable inserts) and align bore back to the size you need. Also have them install rods and pistons to crank and assemble the shortblock. You will be much further ahead doing this as they will be setup with all the parts there anyway, and will have to warranty the shortblock. If they will not warranty there work, or give you a hassle, find another shop. It's as simple as that at this point of the game. I think they will work with you, if you work with them, as any shop need the business and we all know screw-up's do certainly happen!
Think Chevy!
:rolleyes:
:p
