Hi Greg,

The fact that your engine is "stock" is not going to exclude it from having blowby. You didn't mention much about your engines condition other than the leaks. That's why I suggested popping the filler cap and seeing if there is huffing and puffing when you rev the engine. If there was, pop out the draft tube (one bolt on clamp, rubber mallet) and verify it's clear. If there wasn't, you don't have excessive crankcase pressure. This would indicate that your leaks were just from the seals and not being pushed out under pressure.

On a 54 truck it's just as easy to pop off the bumper, grill and radiator. I've done it both ways and it's much easier to R & R the H/B and timing cover with clear access over the front cross member. I've also just replaced the seal without loosening the cover and had the new seal weep oil. Never again! You're going to have the pan off to change the rear seal so you might as well do the timing seal corrrectly, even if you don't modify the front main cap.

While you've got the timing cover and pan off the block, you need to inspect the sealing surfaces and make sure they are flat. Most have been torqued and overtorqued and need some straightening. Once you've got a good flat surface, a SPARING bead of RVT on the pan rim will hold the gasket in place. Let it set up a couple hours with clothes pins to hold it in place. I like to use a dab of #2 Permatex on the timing cover and pan bolt threads. Don't overtorque initially as the gasket will soften. In a couple weeks you'll want to give them another little nudge. Paying a little extra attention to detail will pay off with a clean, dry garage floor.

You asked about the seals....I'd try NAPA....they've been a good source for engine parts.

I'd like to apologize in advance for using the term "easy and easier" in describing the replacement of the timing cover seal. Pulling all the sheet metal is a real pain-in-the-neck ....it's like having a root canal...but once it's done and done right, you won't have to worry about it again! But it's the price we have to pay to keep our "old iron" running.

Dave


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