The fuel needs to be 45 to 55 PSI at the rail ( or TBI.) If the distributor is off 180, you should get a good "pop". Recheck your wires, make sure you have spark at the plug. When you dead time it, it should start. You only need to disconnect the tan with black wire after you have warmed it up and need to set it factory. Make sure your fuses are good. That will be the "engine a" fuse and "engine b" fuse.
Sometimes it may seem you have good gas, but if the pump ain't producing within specs, the engine won't run. I've had injectors look like they're making fuel but really weren't.
Back to basics. It needs spark and fuel. If you are in the sticks and don't have diagnostic tools, you can cheat to see if it is a fuel problem or a spark problem. Spray some quick start ( ether) into the intake. If it kicks and runs for that brief moment, then you are chasing a fuel problem. If it cranks and nothing happens, you are chasing a spark problem. Since it worked well before you started work and you R and R'd the distributor, I would suspect the problem is there. It might just be that the jostling around killed the pickup and module. As a course of action, when I pull a distributor, I always update the pickup and module. Unless recently done. Take a deep breath, have a favorite drink, and start over. Take your time. Afterall, it is only an engine, not rocket science.
BTW, remember that when you reinstall a distributor, the rotor will turn a bit as you drop it. The shaft will have to be turned back a couple of teeth before dropping it so the rotor will end up in the original position.
