Larry, I would and will provide simple to follow wiring diagrams for the price of a 37 cent stamp.
If you can change distributer points,you can wire the OD,it's that simple.
In fact I'll tell ya right here,get a 12 volt relay,like the one used for headlights,I'm assuming here you all have 12 volt negative ground systems.Find a place to mount the relay,hanging from the speedo cable under the dash by a ty wrap works just fine. If you don't have a speedo cable,you can actually screw it to the kick panel,lol.Run a 14 gauge wire from the fuse box or other always hot situation,(battery,starter connection).That wire goes on the "line" terminal on the relay,fuse it for 15 or 20 amps.Then from the load terminal of the relay run a wire to the OD solinoid terminal. Most solinoids have two terminals,to find the right one,temporaraly hook a wire from the battery positive,touch it on one of the screws.If you got it right,you'll hear a load click,50/50 change of being right the first try,lol.The other terminal on the soliniod is for the ignition cut,something you're not using.Now on the relay there are two terminals used to energize the contact closing coil.Take a wire from one ot those terminals to the terminal on the OD governor if it's being used,this wire is grounded by a speed sensative flyweight gizmo when the vehicle hits 25-30 MPH.Most gus also add a light to this circuit that illunminates when the governor is doing it's job..The other contact coil terminal goes to side of the igniton switch that's hot when the key is on.If you want manual control of the solinoid,cut a single throw,single pole switch into the wire running to the governor.You are finished,20 feet of stranded wire,a 6 buck relay,a few ty wraps and crimp electricial connectors.
If you don't run a governor like Cosmo,then ya only need the solenoid circuit controlled through a single pole single throw switch,no relay needed.
You may want to disconnect the battery first to avoid unwanted sparks.
