This is part venting, part warning. :mad:
I just got in my reproduction heater control valve ($44.95 from Chevy Duty.) This is a piece of junk:
- The old valve I took out (I assume it is original, or very close to it- it has 12 57 stamped on it) has 3/4" lines, the repro has 5/8". This will look pretty stupid sticking out of the firewall. I guess it is my problem to figure out how to transition the 5/8" nipple to 3/4" so that I can run the same size hoses from the water pump.
- In Chevy Duty's catalog, they write "Tubing size is 5/8" as was used on 55 - 56 trucks but will work equally well on 57 - 59's." That's a bunch of crap. With the valve they provided a 3" long stump of 5/8" hose, presumably to connect the valve to the core. It can't connect! It is too short, STRAIGHT, and 5/8" while the core is 3/4". Again, I guess it is up to me to figure out how to transition from their valve to my core. (They sell elbow hoses in 5/8" and 3/4" sizes, but provided some 5/8" drop, not an elbow. I would need a 5/8 x 3/4 to make it work, but they don't sell that.) This isn't "equally well" in my book.
- They supply a note in the bag with the valve that reads "We duplicate this part exactly from Chevrolet New Old Stock. It is identical to Chevrolet's orginal valve. However, you may notice that your original valve used a capillary tube. Chevrolet discovered that the capillary tube was not needed, and replaced it during later production with a small clip which we supply on our valve. If you wish, you may replace the clip on your new valve with your original tube."
You can't say "it is identical but..." That makes it different. It isn't an exact reproduction of a 55 - 56, and it sure as heck isn't a reproduction of a 57 - 59. It simply isn't an exact copy of Chevy NOS like they state. The tubing wall is so thin it is scary. This is a replacement valve for 55 - 56, not a reproduction.
I figure to get this valve to work correctly will require me to cut the 5/8" inlet and attach a transition so that I can move the 3/4" inlet from the old one to the repro. Then I'll need to solder on some elbows and transition it to 3/4" so that a 3/4" hose will connect it to the core. I estimate it will take at least another hour plus materials to make it work.
I can have my old valve rebuilt for $89 dollars with a 1 year warranty. Why am I even messing with a repro??
I'll post pictures later on to show the issues.
Thanks for the soapbox. Buyer beware.
Bill