I have seen some mechanics/machinist improperly interpret what a "full pressure/full flow" oil conversion is.
I'm not saying that your modifications to the 216 oil system are faulty, I'm just throwing out some tips that I've learned about this setup.
More PSI doesn't always mean more oil quantity to critical bearings, and modifying flow characteristics can alter metered oiling.
Maybe one diagnosis could be done by dropping the oil pan and checking the oil pump for debri; and also check the new rod bearings and main bearings to see IF there is a pattern of gauling. The new bearings would really show a lot of signs if they are not getting enough lube. The old shop manual way of loosening bearings and adjusting them per shims was a painful art, but it gave the mechanic a way of "correcting" an overtight or loose fit. I have read where some old mechanics re-adjusted the main bearing shims after 500 miles.
My feeling is start by pulling the warm pan, and as previously mentioned, check for scuffed piston walls. Check for overtight bearings by loosening rods and mains, one-at-a-time and see if any are really seizing when hand turning the crank. Finally check for crap in the oil pump mesh screen, and general oil pump gear condition. Sometimes re-building can leave loose metal in the system that can screw up a new oil pump?
Wishing you the best of luck.
[ 01-02-2002: Message edited by: lil' johnny ]
