The diameter of the lifter bores in the block of a stovebolt six is much larger than a small block V8. The closest match I've been able to find is a lifter (solid or hydraulic) for an AMC or a MOPAR V8. Those lifters would require a thin sleeve to be pressed into the stovebolt block and then reamed/honed for the proper running fit. I have done that on a 216 block, but I haven't gotten that project running yet. I was planning to use tie bar roller lifters for a MOPAR 440, until I discovered the difficulty and expense of getting a roller cam made for that engine. Now I'm thinking about using solid lifters the same diameter against a Melling CCS-1 flat tappet cam. (
www.ebay.com/itm/150812619057? ) Their cost is a fraction of the scarce and expensive stovebolt lifters, and they're much more available. The same sleeving procedure could be done to a later model stovebolt engine with hydraulic lifters, but the sleeves would need to be drilled for the lifter oil gallery. That approach will also require custom length pushrods, with appropriate end shapes for the stovebolt rocker arms and the MOPAR lifter shape. Smith Brothers (
www.pushrods.net) says they can do that if I provide them with an example of the pushrod I need. I plan to make my own custom pushrods- - - -"It ain't rocket surgery!"
Comp Cams and the other aftermarket cam grinders sell a break-in lube that has the high pressure additives needed to handle the scuffing action of a cam lobe against the lifter base during the break-in run. On an engine with valve spring pressures as low as a stovebolt, regular motor oil or hypoid rear end lube would probably work, but cam lube is cheap insurance.
www.ebay.com/itm/940008317669? Jerry
