Unfortunately my measuring tools are limited to a decent vernier caliper but I'd say the the rear main journal is about .001 too big. Shims are not even in the conversation at this point, with the crank on stands, on the bench with the bearing in the cap will not go onto the crank without forcing it, there is NO clearence. Oddly, as I mentioned, with the other three caps installed, shimmed and torqued the crank spins fine. The rear cap (lower) bearing is the hold out.
And NO, the neither the crank nor the block has seen a machine shop during my ownership. But based on what I found during dissassembly a fast moving rebuild shop was the last to be inside the engine. Just a quick review of how I got to this point.
1. All this started in my attempt to replace the rear main seal. When I removed the cap I found that the bearing was wiped, see the pic 2. Then there ws the problem with the doweled bearings. You and I spoke on the phone about that and I dissasembled the short block and notched the block for the tabs. 3. Tried to install the crank. Beginning at the front bearing I shimmed the caps using plastiguage and got in the ballpark, with the crank able to spin freely after installing each of the first three caps. When I got to the rear main that's where I saw that fitment of the rear lower cap was an issue.
What has me mostly puzzled is that with the rear main upper bearing in place and the other three caps torqued it spins. At the same time the rear main lower won't go over the crank all by itself away from the block and on the bench.
I think I know what the solutin is and I'm pretty sure I won't like it but just wanted some input before I take the next steps. Thanks!
1954 3600 Stakebed non-original engine out of a '55 passenger car with powerglide
