Either will work, but Nick's suggestion, if you have snap ring pliers, will make it easier to install.
Some thoughts on honing and steps to do before reassembly:
- Before starting to hone, clean the bore thoroughly and look closely for pitting in the cylinder wall. Minor surface rust can usually be easily cleaned up with a hone, but any pitting that you can catch your fingernail on may not be fully removed with just running the hone. Such pitting, if they are in the range where the cup/piston seal ride will more likely than not lead to cylinder leakage and premature failure of your rebuild. Been there, done that, having almost put my truck into the garage door after taking it for a state inspection. My rebuild lasted less than 10 miles. Just enough to get it to the station, pass inspection, then drive it home and have to stop the truck with the parking brake because my brake pedal went straight to the floor when trying to stop.
Can you say - YIKES!
- If your cleaning/honing is successful, be sure to thoroughly clean up the cylinder and all ports in the reservoir to be sure that fluid flows from the reservoir out and back again. A blocked return port can cause your brakes to stay partially or fully applied leading to possibly overheated/locked up brakes and some serious head scratching to figure out why.
Let us know how the work progresses.
Edit note: John "Utah York" made the point about the return "by-pass" hole being clogged before I could hit the post button - lol.
