What Jon said about the rear main seal. You may have to check to see how much the shop ground off the crank seal surface and get a slightly smaller Speedi-Sleeve than Jon suggested so it fits tight enough.

If you go with the one piece seal, you'll need to have the block and rear main cap machined to fit the seal. I did that on my 216 (see attached pic.) The one-piece seal should take care of any cleanup grind on the seal surface of the crankshaft (unless they got real crazy.) The one-piece seal should be a National 417210 for a 3.875" shaft, 4.756" OD for 4.751" bore with 0.375" depth.

I come up with the following Speedi-Sleeve for a nominal 3.875" shaft. It's a little wide so some would have to be ground off after pressing on. Link Jon's 99387 was the correct number.
Attachments
IMG_7990.JPG (289.21 KB, 121 downloads)
Machine work on block for one-piece seal


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.