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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,048 Posts1,055,626 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,026 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,026 | If you had a milling machine, a better solution might be cutting the splined end off and re-machining the splines. It would take an indexing wheel to get the splines correct. And if the shaft diameter at the cut is smaller than the splined OD, you could build it up with weld prior to cutting the splines. The splined end would be subject to less stress than a weld in the middle, with the bulk of the cross section being original material. Jerry's suggestion of shortening the flanged end would work, but you'd need to do something about the axle bearing where it runs on the shaft unless it's a free-floating axle like on heavy trucks.
But a front axle would need a u-joint near the outer end, and maybe using a slip on yoke welded to the shaft there would work. A press fit of the yoke on the shaft prior to welding would be even better.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
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