| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
8 members (rfs56trk, Wally / Montana, Otto Skorzeny, Hanks custodian, FAST55, HandyAndy, 3B, Donf),
53
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,038 Posts1,055,584 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,472 AD Addict & Tinkerer | | AD Addict & Tinkerer Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,472 | Not sure this technique would work for axles, but as a former career machinist, I have done similar to what you’re suggesting. However, I bored one end (after drilling undersize, you’ll need a boring bar to keep it concentric) then cut the other end down to fit inside for a pressed interference fit. Only a thousand or so is needed. This would eliminate one side of the pin and the interference fit would help keep it concentric. Cut a small bevel on both sides for the weld (1/8” would be sufficent), so you can turn it down flush.
You’ll need to weld a bit on one side then the opposite side letting it cool between welds. Heat treating after would certainly help.
Last edited by Phak1; 06/05/2025 12:35 AM. Reason: Added info
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc BrakesProject JournalsStovebolt Gallery Forum | | |
| |
| |