When using thin-wall dry sleeves one should consider not hammering them very hard even with a piece of wood across the bore. Better to shrink them.
I have installed dry sleeves in engines that were sleeved from the factory. Most had a flange at the top to trap the sleeve between the block and head. I removed them by running a bead of weld up the sleeve in a couple of places to shrink them and tapping them out with a long brass drift. There are sleeve extractor tools for pulling them and wet sleeves too. Too expensive for a one-time job though.
To install I packed them in dry ice from a nearby caterer for an hour and knocked them in with a hard rubber mallet. I have seen instruction for repair sleeves that included a countebore for a flanged sleeve. Don't know if that's common in light-duty applications.
Anyways, the further you get into such a project, the more expensive mistakes become and installing the sleeve is the last operation.
