The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors Replaced cab mounts, doors won't close...

I will add one additional note here relaative to Gib70's comment.

The FAM says that the mounts should be in a line. That does *not* mean that the shims should necessarily be the same or proportional if you are doing a new/clean assembly.

In my case, the cab was aligned such that everything worked with variable thickness shims at all of the mounts. I could only use the math to figure out the correct new shim because I was changing an existing (notionally) correct setup.

The shims exist to correct small cab-to-cab and frame-to-frame variances, so proper shimming using traditional methods will be neccesary to get that baseline.

Theoretically a person could measure the locations of all the mounts on the frame and all the mounts on the cab/fenders and calculate the necessary shims for that particular combination of parts, but given the flexibility of the parts and the complicated geometry, I do not believe it would be any faster or more accurate than determining it experimentally.

I think the most valuable bottom line takeaway from my experience here is that improperly shimming the front of the cab can cause door frame deformation that prevents the doors from closing properly.