SanteFe, what we have here here is a failure to communicate. I posted some thoughts and questions on your other post that Gord linked. The failure is mostly my fault, but some of my questions were ignored or not seen.
Here they are:
"You don't know and we don't know if the "hard start" has anything to do with the stomp switch. 10V should fire the motor. But you don't describe "hard start".
you say "It does start but not right away"
No fire at all?
Some fire?
Slow crank?
Pops/sputters out of carb or exhaust backfire?
And as said we don't know battery voltage while cranking. Could very well be a bad battery breaking down. But again, specifically describe "hard start".
Don't want to assume anything yet and start chasing the wrong thing. Hang loose til we get info, think and advise tests."
Now In this new post I advise to stop testing voltage, you are getting nowhere and it is NOT the way to troubleshoot a hard start condition. I/we are trying to give you the procedure that is best when someone has this issue and we are not there to test and observe. It's Tuff for both sides sometimes. So again stop testing for voltage and describe carefully and completely what the motor is doing, what the starter is doing, how fast it's cranking and how long it takes to start
You don't know if it is a fuel delivery issue, bad starter, bad battery or some NON electrical issue. Your voltages are just fine.
Also please do not use the word "connector". You are using it incorrectly. At least I don't know what you are talking about. I do know what a connector is. The ignition on your truck is wired as follows:
1. Wire from dash ignition switch BAT terminal to one side of ballast resistor.
2. Wire from other side of ballast resistor to coil pos.
3. Wire from the foot switch SIDE TERMINAL to coil pos.
4. Of course, battery cable to foot switch Stud.
5. No connectors involved. No wire from side terminal to ignition switch.
The ignition switch supplies voltage to the ballast resistor, thru the resistor and on to coil. The Side Terminal on foot switch also supplies voltage to coil. This is called a bypass system. Meaning a method of giving the coil all available voltage as starter draws big volts and amps during foot down.....then.... Motor starts, foot lifted, that side terminal direct feed voltage is disconnected and the ballast path takes over for run mode. Supplying a reduced voltage to save wear on points.
You seem to indicate that the motor does eventually start. so you must have things correct. If so and you have cleaned everything like you said you did, your ONLY task at this time is to answer above questions. Skip the concentration on voltage. You see how it's wired. All you have ever described to us is needing "Hard Start" help, then launched into a discussion about voltage. As far as I know you never checked for spark at the spark plugs, never checked if you have gas in tank or gas squirting down carb or said if you are choking or not choking, etc. Let's do this. taking too long.
Other post, you say: "It is my understanding that this small connector/wire (purple btw) is connected to the ignition switch to provide 12v at the coil only during the time when the stomp starter is engaged.
Correct so far?"
NO The foot switch provides the voltage to the side terminal/wire internally. See my wiring instructions above. Bill Hanlon answered this in that first post of yours in case you missed it.
