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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,185 Posts1,057,284 Members48,467 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,172 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,172 | I've seen that seam on pics of reproduction fenders. It's probably there because it was cheaper to form the fender and then put the seam there rather than drawing the steel in a single piece like GM did.
If that's a lap seam that's spot welded, I'd be inclined to cut it and butt weld the seam in a single thickness, then metal finish it and maybe a little filler. If you're not going for a show quality restoration, then maybe use some seam sealer on the underside and use filler on the front to blend it in. Robert (MPandC) has photos of a "ghost" line in the otherwise flawless tailgate off a modern truck where someone used a lap seam for a repair. The double thickness changes the expansion/contraction properties as opposed to the adjacent single thickness.
Pa Farmer, If your sandblaster knows his stuff, you might have him do one of the original fenders to see what happens. Original steel is better than repop IMO. Maybe there's enough metal left that you can use a skim coat of filler (recommending the stuff with metal in it for that.)
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
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