Rolf,
Wire it per the diagram you posted using color or function as a guide. I don't see a need for any added components like diodes....or anything special to do. I believe diodes/feedback are an LED thing.
This is pretty simple. I am writing this "book" becase I see you are frustrated and are getting down. We have all been there. So a complete explanatioin is a cool down and hopefully give you the whole picture to feel confident and keep your good effort and thoughts going. I have probably repeated some of what Jon G, Bill and others have already said. We are all trying to scope in on the general procedure and info to give you.
Typically, using a universal harness, you use the truck wiring diagram, the harness instructions, aftermarket component wiring instructions, Stovebolt.com, a test or two...so that a few things get adapted to allow the kit to be "universal" and accomodate the situation. ALl in all this is a pretty basic new harness rewire. I don't think I, my self, would use the old dash wiring but I can't see it from here. Not that the wire may not be good. but PO's do a lot of sketchy wiring..... and you have reported some troubles under there.
1. If a aftermarket turn signal has a built-in indicator bulb, the bulb is grounded to the case of that turn signal switch. So the case needs to be grounded to the column which is part of the chassis ground system. Clamp needs to touch the column metal or an extra wire.
2. If you have a dash mounted bulb in a socket, that socket needs to be grounded to the dash so that the bulb case gets grounded to chassis.
3. The switch provides a flash signal to left and right, front and rear bulbs. Those bulb sockets need ground at the socket, by touch or a wire, so that those bulb cases get grounded to the chassis.
4. The front flash signals used for the dash indicator are the DBL (Dark Blue) and the LBL (Light Blue) on your diagram as you know, or their AWA equivalent per instructions.. Both get connected to the dash indicator bulb input terminal on it's socket. A plastic socket probably has stick out metal ground clips that contact the metal hole.... or may be a two wire socket.
So basically it's all there, just needs sorted, wired and grounded. You know what you are doing. You are doing good. Make SURE you test all the bulbs at the battery to be sure they are all good. You should be doing wiring at the last of your build when all lights and body parts are assembled and mounted on the truck. If for some reason you need to test this stuff now, you will have to set up a "test set" to simulate the lights or you are going to get all screwed up. With a simulation, you won't know if all the chassis grounds and sockets are grounded on the truck sufficiently. I advise getting the truck and components mostly all together/mounted before wiring.
AAW Harness: Most of the harness will work as instructed. As far as the turn signal goes, These types of universal kits include a GM column connector to fit an original turn signal plug OR to adapt to an aftermarket switch. The instructions for the Power Plus 13 show the colors they use, the circuit number and the description words for the function of each wire regarding turn signal. So wire your aftermarket to the blank mating half of the connector included in the kit, accordingly. You don't necessarily need a 3 prong flasher, I believe you have a 2 prong already in the Power Plus fuse panel. Wire the 14B and 15B to the one dash bulb you have. Wire 14A and 15A per instructions. You can leave the 4 way flasher wires disconnected. If the aftermarket switch has a built-in indicator bulb, you can abandon that also if you want to.
At first, just poke the proposed wire stripped ends into the AAW wired connector half to test. Then either install them into the blank connector half they give you or just butt splice them and forget the connectors. All you need is an ice pick voltage tester if wire is powered or a continuity test if not powered, to trace each wire. Use the buzz/sound feature on your multimeter for continuity. Some wires for the T/S switch may come from the AAW harness (17A). AAW is just running some thru a fuse, that's basically all they are doing.
As you move forward, please give us one issue at a time as it happens and wait for a reply to that issue before getting too deep.
Typically if a bulb stays lit, and is supposed to flash, it's a bad flasher or flasher circuit or wrong flasher or wrong voltage flasher.
If a bulb flashes fast, there is a bulb out somewhere usually.
In general: The mechanical type flasher is not a relay, no ground to it. It is a switch, a bimetalic switch with a heat coil in it, not an eltromagnetic coil. Heat coil heats a bimetalic strip which bends and straightens to connect "X" to terminal "L" or connect to "L" and "P" and provide flash. L and P are the same thing more or less. You can use a two or three prong. If you use a 2 prong, "L" will provide the flash. In your case you have the flasher all set up in the AAW panel. A 2 prong flasher can sometimes cause a bulb to glow. If a pilot bulb glows or dims between flashes, change to a 3 prong.
1. Please explain 'box" and "dash indicator box". What exactly do you mean?
2. I don't know what brand and model of aftermarket T/S switch you have to help with wiring that.
3. "i will post what i find out when i find a switch". What switch are you finding and what is it for?
Last edited by bartamos; 08/05/2024 3:34 AM. Reason: spelling/clarification/rephrase
