I see two things (assuming that image is of the passenger door and the joint we see is between the lock side and the striker). One, the line along the bottom looks pretty uniform (good), your drip holes seem to be in good shape (great!). Since I can only see the bottom (view looking upward) it isn't easy to say. Your strikers will pull your locks inward when adjusted and this will take space out of the latch side of your doors...I see a bit of un-evenness on the lock side but not too much. The hinge side needs to stick outward a bit...that's so it won't rub against the body when the door is opened. Hope this helps.
One other note: please don't use the 11/16" thick (common) weatherstripping. The weatherstrip that is 7/16" (may be sold as 1/2" but isn't) is the best. The Filling Station has it. Steve and I worked with Steele to have this made as correctly as possible. The 11/16" thick stuff is very much too thick.
Also, before you finish everything and paint your doors a good way to keep the skin to inner piece joint from rusting is to get a can of oil based enamel (Rustoleum or any other type), remove your doors, pour about 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls into that seam (tilt it backwards so it doesn't run out the drip holes), tip your doors side to side to distribute and let it dry really well (a couple of days). Then rotate and repeat until you have treated the entire door perimeters. Water won't be harbored in the seam if you do this. Good luck.
Edit...I use lock and latch interchangeably. Actually what many folks refer to as latches are in the business called locks but over the last 50 years it has become very fuzzy as many people seem to prefer to call locks latches...I'm simply trying to communicate and I learned this stuff (sadly) 60 years ago...or a bit more. Good grief as Charlie Brown would say.
Last edited by Jon G; 07/06/2024 12:56 PM.
