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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,106 Posts1,056,213 Members48,436 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,497 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,497 | Some people will say yes and some will say no. My opinion is yes. Especially if you are able to reach both sides of the rusty areas. Another thing I've done is to get some common enamel paint (in a can...not spray-on). Something like Krylon or Rust-O-Leum and then pour some inside the door...maybe 1/4 of a cup to cover the solid side (the side facing out). Color doesn't matter. Just be sure to get oil based enamel. Lean your door first one way and then another until it runs to all edges and into the seams. You may need more than 1/4 of a cup...that's just a starting point. Once you have everything coated, set your door on a couple of sawhorses and leave it in the sun for a day or two. When it is all dry, remove the lock and window regulator from the other side of the door, tape some plastic over all the access holes and do the same thing for that side. Then when that is dry, seal the 3 drip holes in the bottom and do the same thing for the bottom. Usually you will have coated the sides by doing this but look in there to be certain. Then...once that is good and dry I get a small tube of a caulking product like Alex caulk and I run a line from about 8 inches up on each side and all along the bottom seam. Just to be certain no water is going to make its way into that seam again. If you do that, your door will remain rust-free long after we're memories only. Good luck!
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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