I did it all in situ, because there's one of the three mount bolts that's really difficult to get at. Plus the pitman shaft bushing feels tight, so I didn't need to replace it and therefore just left the box on the frame. My hand was just barely small enough to get into the box with rag/brush/grease gun.
Not really difficult, just messy. When I put it back together I tightened up the worm shaft bearings til there was no play and then a smidge more, they felt good. A smidge more and they felt tight and rough, so I backed off the second smidge and then tightened the lockring. Just a little preload and they felt pretty good. I think about as good as original 59 year old parts can feel, that is!
I didn't wind up having to adjust the over center preload, it came out just about perfect. I should still throw the inch/lb torque wrench on it just to verify, as I have small load torque wrenches for my bicycle shop. I think I'm pretty much there, tho.
The main thing I'm wondering though, is how to make the wheel point straight ahead at the middle of box travel. It's been off for as long as I've owned the bus, and even after I had the toe set. Caster angle was good at that time as was camber. It doesn't wear tires funny, and now I know that the box was and is correctly configured. Seems like what sets that steering wheel position is the relationship between the Pitman arm and the steering knuckle and the only way I could see to change that relationship would be to move the axle slightly forward or back. Or else cut and thread the drag link with a sleeve so you could alter its length that way.
Last edited by Tronman; 03/26/2024 3:15 AM.
