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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,082 Posts1,055,961 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,484 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,484 | I used some 1/8 inch thick neoprene foam I had left from another project. It was self-adhesive. I then added a layer of self-adhesive radiant foil barrier on top of that (you need that thin metal layer to convert the sound waves into heat where they get dispersed back into the foam). That's really all the hushmat type products do, but they all use very thin foam it seems. Carpet and a jute mat beneath are okay but a rubber floor mat over jute is fine also and may be easier to keep clean. Be certain to do the area under the seat also. Your rear cab mounts can transmit a good amount of noise. And while you're at it, please check the front cab mounts. The rubber replacement pads you get for those aren't made from the right material and they compress pretty quickly. That (or the dead old pads) will let the pinchweld of your cab sit right smack on your frame and that will let a lot of noise be sent into your cab. I use common shower pan liner (a tough pcv material) cut into pieces and laminated to make new pads for the front mounts...it kills noise and it won't compress. Good luck.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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