And before I move on to other things, please let me point out something that is really, genuinely and truly important. If you look at those shims I told you about you'll see there's a hole in the center and a recessed area. When you mount these to your new springs, you're going to want them installed so that the spring (center) bolt holds them in place and the pin at the end of that spring bolt is exposed at the bottom. So, what to do? Get two large C clamps and screw them down on your spring. Mount them up close to the middle but allow enough room for your spring shim to fit in between them. Tighten them down well and loosen the nut on the spring bolt. Now place the shim on so the recessed area around the hole faces the bottom (where it will attach to your axle). Then slide the spring bolt through everything and replace the nut. If you don't have enough thread room, you'll need to buy new and longer bolts but generally for only 2 degrees you'll be okay. Now tighten that nut and once that's done, remove the C clamps and do the other spring (for the other side of your truck). The thicker part of that shim goes to the rear of your truck (which makes your axle tilt backwards). That's what gives you the caster angle. Why is it so important to have that pin part of the spring bolt exposed? Because that is what mates with a hole in your axle and keeps everything solid and safe. That pin and that hole center your axle. I've seen guys make their own shims and forget this and in the process make a real mess...no pin means your axle is not only not centered but more importantly it means there is nothing keeping it solid on your leaf springs.

Last edited by Jon G; 01/23/2024 9:05 PM.

~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end