| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
9 members (WICruiser, Gray_Ghost, Oswald, Hambone, DaveV, TUTS 59, jmoore, Goach2, Phak1),
110
guests, and
5
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,184 Posts1,057,271 Members48,467 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,309 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,309 | I don’t use anything in that gap. I just make sure that the rear of the hood sits firmly on the cowl seal. I have worked on hoods which had a horrible dent line all the way across the hood above where that material goes. Probably from not having the back of the hood firmly down against the cowl seal, subsequently causing a continuous hammering effect from the vibrating hood hitting the material in that gap. Early to late ‘60s car trunk lids and hoods suffered this same fate as material between the sheet metal and the support metal underneath shrunk with age. You can actually see the exact X pattern of the lower support metal on the top of the hood/trunk.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | |
| |
| |