Jon, I did exactly that, and there was improvement, but the vibration is not completely gone.
I am going to jack the truck this weekend and pull out my dial indicator. I have no idea what the wheel runout limit should be. I will put the indicator on the outside of the wheel, right where the tire seats.
Flat spots are hard to locate, especially when they are small ones…. Tires have imperfections, and I cannot tell the difference. Shaving the tires is something that I considered, however, if they have flat spots, I feel that that would not be a good idea- if they were simply out of round, I could see doing that.
Measuring tire flat spots is not easy- I have been spinning the wheel by hand and trying to feel the tread with my hand… not very scientific. Perhaps I should create a tool/jig with a skateboard wheel on it that I can place against the tread, and see if contact is lost as the tire is rotated?
I have never had issues with tires before, and I have owned a lot of older cars- so this is new territory for me.
If I do have to get new wheels, are you guys running hub centric wheels on lug centric axles/hubs? I don’t like my wheels anyway, and may end up just changing them at some point. I would change to cast aluminum wheels. My rear axle is not hub-centric, neither are the front hubs.Just thinking ahead here, as my tire diameter is actually too small for my gearing, and it looks small on the truck, and I am guessing that I am going to discover that at least two of my tires are messed up from supporting the front end.
The last place that balanced the assemblies said that they had a hell of a time, which is what the first shop said as well.
I’ll report back my findings here this weekend. Thanks again, Dave
Last edited by Norcal Dave; 12/05/2023 3:37 PM.
