Option, let Jon rebuild it for you. No one better.
I don't see why vendors are selling a 6V and 12V version of the same switch. Don't think anyone would build two seperate switches when one would due for both voltages/amps. I think their supplier is duping them. The only vendor who says anything about what makes them different is J. Carter who says 6V "terminals" and 12V "terminals". I think his staff is making that up. The "terminals" would not be voltage or amperage specific. The only thing I can think of is the rheostat wire size but manufacturers would build with one size wire. It's a bogus sales gimmic and our vendors are unaware. I realize the 6V bulbs draw more amps, so build one switch for 6V and call it 6v or 12V. The "terminals" are the screws, the contacts are inside and plenty big. The switch "wiring" is all copper strips. Hi beam draw would be at about 100 Watts/17 Amps @6V. Add a few amps for tail stop turn. Some vendors do sell one switch as 6V or 12V.
The rheostat only sees dash/dome bulb amps.
The 30's and 40's switches had a glass fuse on top.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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