Possibly so. If you want to get the one I believe is the best option for the AD truck, this is it:
https://tinyurl.com/8tyapyktThere are many reasons I endorse this sender above others and I've discussed them here before. If you want me to repeat them, please let me know. You'll need to shorten the mast and the rod for the float.
If your gauge is moving erratically a couple of things could be happening. If you remove the wire going to the center of the sending unit (we can call that your signal wire) your gauge should go to full. And if you touch that wire to a known good ground, your fuel gauge should go to empty. That's pretty simple but there are two things that can goof that simple test up...one is a broken wire
inside the insulation. Very rare but I've seen it happen before. Two is a bad connection somewhere at the sender or at the gauge...a connection that is making contact and then not making contact.
The other thing is your sender. Which in this case is probably the answer. It operates as a wiper (like a windshield wiper, sort of). It "wipes" a contact point across a variable resistance affair and if that wiper gets weak it will start skipping on the resistance winding. And when it does that you'll lose contact/gain contact and your gauge needle will start jumping from what it
should be telling you to Full...back and forth. Or depending on how intermittent the connection between the wiper and the resistance winding is the jumping may only go from say 1/4 tank (or whatever level of fuel is in your tank) up to 1/2 tank and back again. In my experience the senders which operate on a flat plane last longer and are more accurate than what I call the inverted "C" senders. My 2 cents worth...please spend them wisely.
