First, thanks for all your comments and suggestions. I especially like the idea of using the green Loctite to help secure the outside of the bushing to the hole in the crank. ;-)

I'm an amateur machinist, but I think I can tackle this job.

After cleaning the crankshaft hole some more and taking some careful measurements, it looks like the hole is a little tapered and egg shaped. ;-(

Using a new telescoping measuring gauge and a micrometer, I determined the figures you see in the diagram below. I measured multiple times in each location until I got at least three semi-consistent numbers.

Keep in mind that the engine is still sitting in Lurch, so I am contorting my upper body to get these measurements from leaning down into the hole where the floor boards would go. Luckily, I'm still flexible enough to do so.

The vertical dimension of the hole seems to taper from .8195-ish" at the inside to .822-ish" close to the outside.

The horizontal dimension of the hole tapers from .818-ish" to a whopping .8245-ish" close to the outside.

At some point in this crankshaft's life, there must have been a whole lotta shakin' goin' on in there!

I guess what I need to do is come up with a plan for shaping the OD of the pilot bushing with enough clearance so that when I put it in with the Loctite around it, the center hole is concentric with the the flywheel diameter and I need to hold the bushing in that particular place long enough for the Loctite to fully cure, which seems to be 24 hours.

Am I over-thinking this?

Thanks for your combined history and knowledge!!

Dean
Attachments
CrankHoleDiagram-2.jpg (14.02 KB, 62 downloads)
Pilot hole dimensions in Lurch's crankshaft.


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
Lurch: 1927 1-Ton Chevy Cattle Truck
Old and ugly is beautiful! -- The Saga
Lurch's Gallery
Justin: 1928 Chevrolet AB Canopy Express
In the Stovebolt Gallery